stossdampfer vorne 716
stossdampfer vorne 716
Hallo
Beter to Write in english becouse i would make mistakes in german....sorry
I want to know if there are beter front shocks for the 716 pinz....i have a rooftent on top ( big james baroud ) and when i taken a turn the pinz leans over quitte a bit. So i was thinking to look for some stiffer front shocks.....koni or gas shocks
I know That there are different ones for the 710.....rancho or doetch but will they fit and even more important......are they any good?
Likeur to here your opinions ?
Thanks
Beter to Write in english becouse i would make mistakes in german....sorry
I want to know if there are beter front shocks for the 716 pinz....i have a rooftent on top ( big james baroud ) and when i taken a turn the pinz leans over quitte a bit. So i was thinking to look for some stiffer front shocks.....koni or gas shocks
I know That there are different ones for the 710.....rancho or doetch but will they fit and even more important......are they any good?
Likeur to here your opinions ?
Thanks
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Re: stossdampfer vorne 716
Don't forget the factory standard TD shock absorbers have built in "travel-stops" so you can't just fit similar size Koni's, Bilstein's etc.
I understand the factory shockers were specially built for the TD so you pretty much need to fit them again to maintain the mechanical limiting of the axles/wheels.
I understand the factory shockers were specially built for the TD so you pretty much need to fit them again to maintain the mechanical limiting of the axles/wheels.
Peter
www.ozpinz.com
www.ozpinz.com
Re: stossdampfer vorne 716
Why not use harder springs?
Re: stossdampfer vorne 716
So with the use of straps it would be possible..?.strange That the benzin versions use straps and That they didn't use this on the later diesel pinzgauers.....now you have to buy the shocks special build for the diesels becouse others dont have the botoming stops.
I personally prefer gas or adjustable shocks above oil filed ones...and find the adjustible koni's verry relaible so therefore my question.
Thanks for the response
I personally prefer gas or adjustable shocks above oil filed ones...and find the adjustible koni's verry relaible so therefore my question.
Thanks for the response
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Re: stossdampfer vorne 716
As I understand, the most modern shock absorbers have botoming stops.
You just have to pay attention to the correct maximum length (49.5 cm).
Beside this, the use of the Gasolin Pinzgauer shocks is not usefull, because the Diesel has a much higher axel weight, a wider track, other springs...these shocks are simpy to small/weak for the td. there won't be any improvement.
First of all, the new shocks have to mach all these parameters an then you can discuss the damper characteristic.
It is not such a simple theme..
You just have to pay attention to the correct maximum length (49.5 cm).
Beside this, the use of the Gasolin Pinzgauer shocks is not usefull, because the Diesel has a much higher axel weight, a wider track, other springs...these shocks are simpy to small/weak for the td. there won't be any improvement.
First of all, the new shocks have to mach all these parameters an then you can discuss the damper characteristic.
It is not such a simple theme..
Gregorix / Old Shatterhand.(c. Lorenz)
Warum nur einen Pinzi, wenn man um´s doppelte Geld auch zwei haben kann...
www.geoserve.co.at
www.teamsaurer.com
Warum nur einen Pinzi, wenn man um´s doppelte Geld auch zwei haben kann...
www.geoserve.co.at
www.teamsaurer.com
Re: stossdampfer vorne 716
Thans wy i would go for adjustable ones.....if i would change the springs then yes the pinz would be a bit stiffer only problemen is i dont drive a whole year with the rooftent on top so when i taken it off i think the pinz would be to hard on its suspension and That Wy i would keep the springs and change the shocks to stiffer or adjustible ones and use straps
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Re: stossdampfer vorne 716
I must admit I have toyed with the idea of fitting standard shock absorbers (most likely Koni's) with air-cooled "check straps" to my 718, but I'm undecided at present.
The main reason is that I want to use the 718 for extended outback travel and the hundreds/thousands of kilometers of corrugated tracks and roads are notorious for damaging shockers.
It's not unusual for seasoned travellers to do a full shocker replacement before/after a long outback trip and the most experienced owners often carry at least one or two replacement units as help or replacement parts can be hundreds (more likely thousands, for a Pinzgauer) of km away.
Given the cost of the factory units and the necessity to import them, it may be beneficial to fit good units (Koni's etc) that are locally and readily available, and "reasonable priced" and opt for seperate suspension/axle stops in the form of check straps.
The main reason is that I want to use the 718 for extended outback travel and the hundreds/thousands of kilometers of corrugated tracks and roads are notorious for damaging shockers.
It's not unusual for seasoned travellers to do a full shocker replacement before/after a long outback trip and the most experienced owners often carry at least one or two replacement units as help or replacement parts can be hundreds (more likely thousands, for a Pinzgauer) of km away.
Given the cost of the factory units and the necessity to import them, it may be beneficial to fit good units (Koni's etc) that are locally and readily available, and "reasonable priced" and opt for seperate suspension/axle stops in the form of check straps.
Peter
www.ozpinz.com
www.ozpinz.com
Re: stossdampfer vorne 716
I agree with Gregor.
For exmple (the other way round ) a lot of my costumers who have (too) heavy front axles on their Petrol Pinzgauers try to use the springs from the TD Pinz.
To save money they use the old, used 1. Version Sachs or the rubbish Monroe (partly swizz army) absorbers from the petrol pinz. The result is a broken limiter strap every day on dashboard roads. (not in race)
Sometimes it works with the 3. Version of the petrol shocks, but they don't have the coils spring in the shock as bottom limiter either.
@ Peter
Do us a big favor and use the original TD shocks, they will survive lots of trips in your outback.
You will go on trips with the standard setup as fast as Toyota Landcruiser (Hi Luxes are victims ) or a Defender, Patrol etc. if they are pimped with TJM, OME or other not real racing shocks. (like min. 2" Fox, Radflo or King with reservoir).
For exmple (the other way round ) a lot of my costumers who have (too) heavy front axles on their Petrol Pinzgauers try to use the springs from the TD Pinz.
To save money they use the old, used 1. Version Sachs or the rubbish Monroe (partly swizz army) absorbers from the petrol pinz. The result is a broken limiter strap every day on dashboard roads. (not in race)
Sometimes it works with the 3. Version of the petrol shocks, but they don't have the coils spring in the shock as bottom limiter either.
@ Peter
Do us a big favor and use the original TD shocks, they will survive lots of trips in your outback.
You will go on trips with the standard setup as fast as Toyota Landcruiser (Hi Luxes are victims ) or a Defender, Patrol etc. if they are pimped with TJM, OME or other not real racing shocks. (like min. 2" Fox, Radflo or King with reservoir).
Re: stossdampfer vorne 716
What about the koni raid. ....they are adjustable and have botoming stops....Just need to find the correct length
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Re: stossdampfer vorne 716
The characteristics of compression and rebound in such a small working way? Which other car does have the same? None ... .
Re: stossdampfer vorne 716
I used the original td shocks during a desert rally and I found them very satisfactory.
especally compared to the petrol shocks, with whom I have very much expierience using them during desert rallyes.
@ Peter
I would also recoment unsing the original ones, like lorenz said. I cannot imagine hat thes will dissapoint you.
@ pinzi
if you rally have problems with too much weight on the roof top for the original driveline setup, I do not believe that it is possible to compensate this with other shocks.
if you cannot avoid tho put so much weight on the top, try to place it above the rear wheels. an check if your shocks are in good conditions.
perhabs it will be enough to replace them by original new ones.
I wonder how ist the weight of your rooftent? I often drove my 718 K with about 60 to 80 kg on the roofrack. with no unaccaptable negativ influence on the driving charakteristics in normal (street) conditions.
especally compared to the petrol shocks, with whom I have very much expierience using them during desert rallyes.
@ Peter
I would also recoment unsing the original ones, like lorenz said. I cannot imagine hat thes will dissapoint you.
@ pinzi
if you rally have problems with too much weight on the roof top for the original driveline setup, I do not believe that it is possible to compensate this with other shocks.
if you cannot avoid tho put so much weight on the top, try to place it above the rear wheels. an check if your shocks are in good conditions.
perhabs it will be enough to replace them by original new ones.
I wonder how ist the weight of your rooftent? I often drove my 718 K with about 60 to 80 kg on the roofrack. with no unaccaptable negativ influence on the driving charakteristics in normal (street) conditions.
Gregorix / Old Shatterhand.(c. Lorenz)
Warum nur einen Pinzi, wenn man um´s doppelte Geld auch zwei haben kann...
www.geoserve.co.at
www.teamsaurer.com
Warum nur einen Pinzi, wenn man um´s doppelte Geld auch zwei haben kann...
www.geoserve.co.at
www.teamsaurer.com
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Re: stossdampfer vorne 716
You can´t go after a Picture where the Pinny is parking backward. because the front going down and the back came up. there are parameterlists of Spring and pinion combinations in order of Vehicle axle weight. you should first drive on a weighting scale with each axle
so i look at your early P80 i would prefer you to take zwo line blue at front ( standart bolt, no lines) and two red/ one white (with 116mm bolt) at rear (for mostly full load driving). For front shock absorbers i would prefer you 716.1.54.103.2 series with spacers. stronger absorbers turns the halfaxles on the studs , especially on TD because wider track I have also series on my armored 6x6 which has the weight on front axle like your hole Pinz!
For controlling of body to drivetrain by driving curves the front spring / absorbers are important, if "the back" is coming uncontrolled/ to early / or only one tyre contact -there is a fail at the rear air-system/ false springs.
at the back air system are two main groups of leveling sensor´s ,if you have a "anti-roll bar" to both axle- it is the first generation, which makes some times problem´s with the leveling way and often switch circles..
there are different typs of air-spring lines and diameters from 4mm to 6mm lines too.
may you can write why changing- where are the ( your) Probi´s? only changing to Koni or other#s is not a argument!
BTW the Pinz will never be a racing car, the driving condition´s are like a lorry best like a light truck( sprinter, transit or co)
P.S. the ending tube of your muffler should by fixed at the chassis, because the oulet of the muffler isn´t strong enought for that! i have also RHD Ending tubes used for sale, also OME mounting plates for chassishttp://www.puch.at/3160_Plateaublech-A%2c-C%2c ... spx?LNG=de pos 23, pos 24
so i look at your early P80 i would prefer you to take zwo line blue at front ( standart bolt, no lines) and two red/ one white (with 116mm bolt) at rear (for mostly full load driving). For front shock absorbers i would prefer you 716.1.54.103.2 series with spacers. stronger absorbers turns the halfaxles on the studs , especially on TD because wider track I have also series on my armored 6x6 which has the weight on front axle like your hole Pinz!
For controlling of body to drivetrain by driving curves the front spring / absorbers are important, if "the back" is coming uncontrolled/ to early / or only one tyre contact -there is a fail at the rear air-system/ false springs.
at the back air system are two main groups of leveling sensor´s ,if you have a "anti-roll bar" to both axle- it is the first generation, which makes some times problem´s with the leveling way and often switch circles..
there are different typs of air-spring lines and diameters from 4mm to 6mm lines too.
may you can write why changing- where are the ( your) Probi´s? only changing to Koni or other#s is not a argument!
BTW the Pinz will never be a racing car, the driving condition´s are like a lorry best like a light truck( sprinter, transit or co)
P.S. the ending tube of your muffler should by fixed at the chassis, because the oulet of the muffler isn´t strong enought for that! i have also RHD Ending tubes used for sale, also OME mounting plates for chassishttp://www.puch.at/3160_Plateaublech-A%2c-C%2c ... spx?LNG=de pos 23, pos 24
Re: stossdampfer vorne 716
Hallo
About the front and rear springs....been cleaning them now and i can find three (3) yellow dots on the front springs and what ik can make of it...two (2) red dots at the rear ....any body an idea
About the front and rear springs....been cleaning them now and i can find three (3) yellow dots on the front springs and what ik can make of it...two (2) red dots at the rear ....any body an idea
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